Carnival (Carnaval in Spanish and Portuguese) is a popular holiday in many Roman Catholic countries. The main festivities of Carnaval begin on the Saturday before Ash Wednesday and end on “Fat Tuesday” (Mardi Gras). This four-day event is often considered a time of excess, with people masquerading or dressing up, overeating, and going on drinking binges. While there is no doubt that this does sometimes occur, Carnaval is celebrated in many different ways, often with typical dances and music, family get togethers, or local cultural events.
Although the largest Carnaval celebration is held in Brazil, other South American countries also observe the holiday, each in its own way. In Ecuador, Carnaval is characterized as a time of the year that people throw water and get each other wet. It is common to see small children as early as January 2 squirting water guns at passing cars and pedestrians. Hiding on rooftops or behind trees, these children may also throw water balloons and buckets of water. While it is principally young children who throw water at strangers, water throwing is also popular among teenagers, who use it as a flirting mechanism to draw attention to members of the opposite sex. Tourists to Ecuador during this season should be aware, as they often become targets as well.
Carnaval in Ecuador is especially important in the cities of Ambato and Guaranda. In Ambato, it is celebrated with a festival called Fiesta de las Flores y las Frutas (Flowers and Fruit Festival). The city gets decked up in lights and invites the country’s national and international tourists to visit during the weekend before Ash Wednesday. City-wide dances and parades are held, as well as cultural events. Traditionally, a religious-themed mural is displayed over the doors of the city’s main cathedral in downtown. This mural, made entirely of flowers, fruits and bread, towers two-stories high, and is a popular attraction for visitors.
Because of the importance of this festival for this central Andean town, throwing water is prohibited in the downtown area. Nevertheless, outside of downtown, water throwing is legal, so tourists should be aware. In addition, since water throwing is not allowed near the main festivities, people celebrate by spraying carioca, a foamy substance similar to watery shaving cream. Carioca is relatively harmless, although people often hide it in jackets or behind their backs and then take it out by surprise, aiming at the eyes and face. Tourists should simply be aware and on the lookout, and try not to take it personally if they get targeted.
Guaranda is also known for its carnival celebrations. This sleepy mountain town, about an hour and a half from Ambato, is nestled along the slopes of Ecuador’s highest peak, Mount Chimborazo. Normally quiet and serene, Guaranda turns into party central during the days before Ash Wednesday. There are parades, music and dancing on every corner of every barrio, comparsas (mini sketches played out in small processions or parades), and lots of local cuisine and drinking. Here, water throwing is for sissies – instead, people take to throwing flour, cornstarch, and even eggs! If in Guaranda during Carnaval, expect to get dirty!