Located on the southern coast of the largest of the Galápagos Islands, Puerto Villamil has a population of about 2,200 and thrives quietly on fishing and tourism and as a centre for the agricultural activities on the rich volcanic soils inland. The palm-lined sandy streets provide an escape from the more touristed islands with beaches, lagoons and harbour within easy walking distance. Motor vehicles are sparse. The locals value their tranquillity, but are friendly and welcoming to visitors. Not much English is spoken, but it is easy to arrange activities and get directions with or without the benefit of an organised tour. It is also a great place to find a hammock and relax, swim and snorkel, enjoy the local food (seafood based) and a cocktail at a bar overlooking the water. Most tourists come by boat from the central island of Santa Cruz, but it is also possible to fly.
Beach and Harbour
The long sandy beach out the front of the town is perfect for viewing seabirds, iguanas and crabs, and for sunset walks. Around the harbour sea lions glide through the water or rest on any convenient rock or unoccupied water craft. Galápagos Penguins and Blue-footed Boobies can often be viewed from the jetties, or during the harbour cruises offered by many small boat owners.
Snorkelling
It is a short walk from the dock to Concha de Perla, via a boardwalk through tangled mangrove stilt-roots. Snorkelling is safe with penguins, manta rays and marine turtles for company, plus multitudes of colourful fish.
Wetlands
Behind the beach on the western side of town, the Villamil Lagoons are a network of large shallow water bodies, connecting shallow wetlands and mangroves. Water birds abound, including a large diversity of migrant waders. Flamingos can usually be spotted and boardwalks and viewing platforms provide access to the best vantage points. In recognition of their values for biodiversity and sustainable use, the wetlands were declared a Ramsar wetlands site of international importance in 2002.
Giant Tortoises
A trail and boardwalk system across the wetlands through thorny coastal scrub dotted with prickly pear cactus leads to the Tortoise Breeding Centre. The island of Isabela hosts five sub-species of the Giant Tortoise, each associated with one of the five major volcanoes on the island in habitat sufficiently isolated for separate genetic development. All are seriously threatened, with numbers reduced by past depredations of pirates, fishermen and collectors. Current threats are mainly from feral animals (cats and rats, which hunt and kill baby tortoises, and goats and pigs that destroy habitat). The breeding centre raises and protects the animals until they are large enough to survive in the wild and until threats are removed from their habitat, but some subspecies are on the edge of extinction.
More Places to See
Ask around to make arrangements for trips to other parts of this large island. At quieter times, it may be hard to make up numbers for a group so if time is short, there will be advantages in pre-booking. It is easy to hike or ride to the nearby Volcán Sierra Negra and the Wall of Tears, built by convicts. It is worth planning to take time for the more remote volcanoes, islets and coastlines.
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